Ephesus & Kusadasi, Turkey

As most of you are reading from the US, you likely know what it's like when a country is misunderstood; when the spotlight calls out a nation's failings instead of its beauty. I would argue that just as some misunderstand the United States, so too do we sometimes misunderstand Turkey. They are not Morocco which is not Lebanon which is not Iraq which is not Afghanistan. If you have been put off by Turkey because of its location, religion or perceived feelings about America, don't. Just go!

Jillian and I made a call on Kusadasi while cruising last May and we had a very rich experience. I had been to the port about 10 years ago and this time I was not going to repeat the mistake of not going to Ephesus. Ephesus is essential. How often do you get to see one of the TRUE Seven Wonders of the Ancient World?

(Ahem... a guilt-soothing moment of honesty from Happy Alaskan: there is next to nothing left of the Temple of Artemis. But it was here until 401 AD. A better place to see artifacts is the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul where some of the original columns remain. The British Museum also contains a collection of objects from their excavation of the site in the 19th century.)



Back on topic: Ephesus was once a major hub on the Aegean coast. It was ruled at various time by the Persians, Greeks, Egyptians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Turks and now the tourists. Famous men passing these streets included Alexander the Great, Paul and John the apostles. Today it is preserved as one of the best Roman ruins in the world. The iconic Celsus Library is the most important structure reminding us of the importance Roman culture placed on education, learning and archiving. The now-perished building behind the existing facade held perhaps 12,000 hand-written scrolls.

Regarding Paul, John & Mary and early christian history: their story is well told here also. Catholic tradition claims that Mary, mother of Jesus, lived her final years here with John. To this effect there is a shrine said to be her former house where believers gather for near continuous reciting of mass. Orthodox Christians insist Mary died and is buried in Jerusalem but no definitive evidence of either claim has been given. What is clear is that Paul wrote 1st Corinthians while here. Later, his letter to the Ephesians (his former congregation) is said to have been written from prison in Rome. John, expanding the church in Asia Minor (Turkey) likely lived and died here around 100 AD. Jillian and I visited what is said to be his simple grave at the end of our time in Ephesus. I was surprised how few followers it attracted given its proximity to the rest of the ruins.

Kusadasi is a thriving port city looking to the west both geographically and culturally. We had such a nice feast in the tourist area and the total bill was but $30 USD for 2, including a few beers. We did a bit of shopping where we got to practice our bargaining skills. We finally ended up people watching at a locals bar for hours. A particular thrill was being in the neighborhood of one of the mosques when the afternoon call to pray was given. The streets did not clear as you might expect in more conservative areas but the cultural experience of hearing this live was worth the wait.

Tips for fellow travelers:
1) Do Ephesus no matter what the cost, the weather or the length of your stay here
2) Walk the markets and look for deals, while not being an ugly tourist. Everything is not $1 as some of you have heard. It is however a great price, even when the quality is suspect.
3) Efes beer, fresh fruit and Donner Kebabs are all worth trying - in excess if you have to! Go ahead, you're on vacation!
4) Gas is unbelievably expensive for some reason. It was around $12-13 USD per gallon, $3 USD per litre. This reduces the value of taking taxis, although having a private guide is a great way to get the most out of your time. Their English is excellent.

I hope this is enough to inspire you to try Turkey. I look forward to your questions if you have any.